Kruger-Rumpf Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spatlese, Rheinhessen, Germany

點擊次數(shù)：4557

The Kruger-Rumpf 2006 Binger Schalachberg Riesling Spatlese was picked with an eye to letting in the botrytis (even though most growers had no choice this year). Mango, melon, papaya, and honey signify ennobled ripeness, all right, and a root beer- and sassafras-like expression of herbal-arboreal concentrate gives this a memorable, Erdener Treppchen-like cast. (Iron rich soils both: could “terroir” really be that simple?) A glycerin-rich, lush palate impression and an almost gaudy finish of tropical fruits, root- and herb-essences, and brown spices are beautifully supported by moderate sweetness. There have been some interesting dry Scharlachberg bottlings before, but now I am wondering: why not do it this way every year? This excellent value should last 10-12 years. Stefan Rumpf’s collections may still – as I wrote of it previously – be “sprawling ... at times hit and miss.” But his aim becomes ever more accurate. (Son Johannes is now intimately involved.) This year, the Rumpfs decided to take advantage of their enhanced acreage of a variety that they would probably have given up on ten years ago had it not been for their importer, and bottle a dry Scheurebe. The timing was perfect, because not only did this estate make some of the only noteworthy Scheurebe of the vintage, but in the Pfalz – even when growers are not challenged as they were in 2006 – Scheurebe is more and more getting marginalized as a “supplemental variety,” destined solely for some of that region’s rare wine of residual sweetness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300