The Selbach’s 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett offers a charred wood, herb, and toasted nut aroma typical for this site. (Trust me, the actual barrels used are old and not charred!) The palate impression is brothy, mouthfilling, and saturating, yet with a firm, bracing, apple side, and poised between a palpable sense of extract and an attractive degree of lightness. The finish is rather austere yet juicy and satisfying with long notes of lemon zest, smoke, and stone. “You can make a Kabinett finer, with more filigree and layers than this,” comments Johannes Selbach, “but with Kabinett I want to deliver a mouthful of wine that snaps like you’re biting into an apple, and of which one bottle per person can stand empty on the table at the end of the evening.” I agree wholeheartedly with the first part of that statement and am looking forward to testing the latter! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300