Talcum powder, spices, and pears can be found in the nose of the medium-bodied 2001 Beaune Clos des Mouches. A wine of considerable substance, it is rich, broad, lush, and satin-textured. Honeyed minerals (neither oxidized nor sweet) and spices are detected in its expressive personality. Projected maturity: now-2009. This famed negociant firm performed substantially more batonnage on its 2001 whites in an attempt to give them additional body.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

This is an obvious but delectable white Burgundy. It’s smoky and toasty, with upfront oak, yet the wood is amply backed by layers of grilled peaches and citrus. It’s ripe and plump and ready to drink now and over the next several years.——J.C.(10/1/2003)—— 90