The 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella comes across as a bit restrained. Dark red berries, licorice, leather and exotic spices take shape in the glass. The 2007 impresses for its polish and balance. It is a decidedly vinous Recioto with only moderate levels of sweetness and viscosity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Proprietor Marco Sartori embodies all of the best qualities of Valpolicella-s top artisan growers. A meticulous focus on quality means that the top wines - the Amarone and Reciotos - are only produced in the very best vintages. Sartori favors a relatively laid-back style for his Amarone. The grapes are pressed on the first day allowed by regulations, with a goal of keeping residual sugar in the 5.5-8.0-grams per liter range. Over the last few vintages Sartori has begun giving his wines 24-26 months in oak, 6 months less than before, and more time in bottle, again with the goal of maintaining as much freshness as possible. All of the new releases are highly recommended, but the 2008 Valpolicella is the under-the-radar gem in this lineup.Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella comes across as a bit restrained. Dark red berries, licorice, leather and exotic spices take shape in the glass. The 2007 impresses for its polish and balance. It is a decidedly vinous Recioto with only moderate levels of sweetness and viscosity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Proprietor Marco Sartori embodies all of the best qualities of Valpolicella's top artisan growers. A meticulous focus on quality means that the top wines - the Amarone and Reciotos - are only produced in the very best vintages. Sartori favors a relatively laid-back style for his Amarone. The grapes are pressed on the first day allowed by regulations, with a goal of keeping residual sugar in the 5.5-8.0-grams per liter range. Over the last few vintages Sartori has begun giving his wines 24-26 months in oak, 6 months less than before, and more time in bottle, again with the goal of maintaining as much freshness as possible. All of the new releases are highly recommended, but the 2008 Valpolicella is the under-the-radar gem in this lineup. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552