The 2004 Recioto della Valpolicella possesses a rich, opulent core of dark fruit framed by silky tannins. Leather, spice and herb overtones develop in the glass, adding layers of complexity to this beautiful, delicious Recioto. While there are certainly bigger and more opulent versions of Veneto's most famous dessert wine, readers will have a very hard time finding a Recioto that offers this level sheer harmony and balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. This set of wines from Roccolo Grassi was one of the strongest I tasted this year in Veneto. Proprietor Marco Sartori is on a roll. Readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these gorgeous wines. The house style favors elegance and detail over sheer power, qualities these offerings all have in spades. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552