The 2006 Obermmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett suggests alkaline and wet stone minerality already on the nose, along with yellow plum, orange, and grapefruit. Juicy citricity and slate character throughout help balance this Kabinett’s high residual sugar (marginally less integrated than in the corresponding Scharzhofberger), the pay-off on which is a ravishing lift and delicacy. Honey and spice notes discreetly and flatteringly signal the presence of botrytis. This should drink well for at least 6-8 years. Ebernard von Kunow’s outstanding 2005 collection gave promise of a return to the quality that made this estate a leader for most of the last quarter century, and – in the context of a challenging vintage – his 2006s were reassuring on that score. Patient settling of the musts and selective bentonite fining were von Kunow’s non-aggressive tools for dealing with the negative side of botrytis one of the most rigorous triages that time permitted had taken place in the vineyards. Rapid harvest, low yields and a frank desire to simplify things a bit, have resulted in fewer individual bottlings than one generally associates with this address.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463