The 2007 Etna Rosso is a great introduction to the wines of the Etna. Fresh, floral aromas meld into a soft-textured core of candied red fruits in this accessible, elegant red. The Rosso is made from the estate’s youngest vines, which in this case means plants under 40 years old. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. This lineup from Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the most impressive I tasted. Brothers Marc and Iano De Grazia seem to be hitting their stride with these new releases. The wines show great balance and tons of expressiveness, something that is enhanced by an enlightened use of French oak. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411