The scarcely noticeable (as such) 15 grams of residual sweetness in Ratzenberger’s 2009 Steeger St. Jost Kabinett halbtrocken beautifully brings out this wine’s inherent apricot and winter squash elements while setting off its herbal pungency; fruit pit piquancy; saline, crustacean shell reduction savor; and ineffable, somehow ore-like mineral depth. At the same time, 11% alcohol serves for a sense of levity. Subtly floral scents; emerging underlying almond oil; and subtle creaminess add allure, while the sheer juiciness and salinity here are irresistibly enticing of saliva as well as of each next sip. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. claims this was “more euphoric” prior to its June bottling, and if that points toward the future of this already amazing “l(fā)ittle” wine and sensational value, then watch out! It ought to be worth pursuing not just in the marketplace, but over the next 15 or more years in bottle. The two Jochen Ratzenbergers began picking early in October and were done by the end of that month, with – to the extent that I could assess them – consistently fine results. The collection included only a single botrytis wine, a Wolfshohle Auslese that had received some special press recognition in Germany very early, on account of which the father-son team claimed not to have even a single bottle to show me. What was to have been this year’s Bacharacher Posten Spatlese halbtrocken resolutely stopped fermenting with 30 grams of residual sugar; and I can’t offer a note on the results, because some Swiss merchant had bought every last bottle from Ratzenbergers. The 180 liters of Ratzenberger 2009 Kloster Furstental Eiswein had not nearly finished fermenting when I tasted it, but even in its leesy, cloudy, and still-active state it was clear that this would become an impressively concentrated libation. (It started life at 210 Oechsle and at the steady fermentative tempo which it had exhibited through September, was expected to officially become wine by last Christmas – though when it would be deemed “finished” was anybody’s guess.) Speaking of which, Ratzenbergers have just taken over some additional acreage in the Kloster Furstental, which in future might result in other single-vineyard bottlings from that site. “We couldn’t take all of the acreage that was offered,” relates the younger Jochen Ratzenberger, “but we took what we could handle. We want to do our part to see that this amazing steep site remains planted.” The absence of suggested retail pricing for many Ratzenberger wines I review could, I decided, use some explanation. By arrangement with their importers – as a survey of the U.S. marketplace confirms – only their lightest-weight wines are released by the Ratzenbergers in the year following their bottling (and even then, not their sweeter Kabinett from the St. Jost). But as wines with bottle age are released, Spatlesen have tended lately to sell in the $30 retail range; Auslesen and Grosse Gewachse in the $45-50 retail range, confirming Ratzenberger Rieslings as superb values.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644