Weingut Ratzenberger Steeger St. Jost Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The Ratzenberg 2006 Steeger St. Jost Kabinett halbtrocken features a profusion of herbs along with grapefruit rind and pineapple, and a waxy texture that enhances an impression of herb-tinged summer squash. With palate-saturating intensity yet delicacy, and a delightful interplay of mineral, herb, and citrus nuances, this impeccably-balanced, sensational value dry-tasting Kabinett will be hugely satisfying over the next 5-7 years. For the record, it has 11.5% alcohol and 13 grams of residual sugar, but very few German vintners are interested in crafting a Riesling that’s not either legally trocken – and thus, almost inevitably, well over 12% – or else hugely high in residual sugar. Without spraying against botrytis, Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. insists that the proper management of the family’s vines and greening between the rows kept rot at bay, but 30% less than a normal volume was harvested. The Ratzenbergers began picking on Septermber 25 and were done on the 12th of October.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644