The highlight among these new releases is the 2008 Nerobaronj. An exotic melange of juicy dark cherries, freshly cut flowers, licorice and tobacco takes shape as this huge, racy wine shows off its irrepressible personality. The integrity of the fruit and the wine’s sheer balance are both marvelous to behold. Layers of fruit fill out the broad-shouldered finish beautifully. In 2008, the Nerobaronj is striking in every way. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. When I think of benchmark producers of Nero d’Avola one of the first names that comes to mind is Gulfi. The estate makes a number of single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas that provide an opportunity to explore the various shades this great Sicilian variety is capable of expressing. Gulfi’s best-known wines emerge from head-trained Nero d’Avola in the Pachino and Val di Noto districts, all farmed organically. The Reseca, a Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of the Etna, is the exception, but it, too, is fabulous. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202