The 2004 Alwyn Chardonnay is even better, hand picked, 100% barrel fermented but with no malo, matured in 100% French oak of which 60% is new. A very Burgundian nose with superb minerality greets the senses, the palate is tense and poised, a slightly viscous mouthfeel, very focused with a subtle honeyed finish inflected with dried apricot, lingering long after the wine has been expelled. This is a sophisticated, intellectual Chardonnay that should age gracefully over 8-10 years. The roots of Hawkes Bay’s Ngatarawa lay in the Corbans and Glazebrook families who united in 1981 to become one of the first wine producers in the area. The Glazebrooks sold their share in 1999 and the estate is currently run by cousins: Alwyn and Brian Corban. Their main vineyards are located in the heart of the Bridge Pa triangle, whose sandy-loam soil with gravelly sub-soil was formed by an ancient riverbed. There are four brands within the Ngatarawa portfolio, the Alwyn a selection of the best fruit in exceptional years.Importer, Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700; fax (212) 355-4719