Good color and intriguing aromas of baked fruit, tobacco and mint indicate that you’re getting some modern-styled ripeness along with traditional Rioja earth, spice and old man’s library. The palate is juicy and mildy fruity, while the finish pushes chocolate, vanilla, baking spice and tannins. Drinkable now but will age for another five years without a problem.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 89