This is ageable and enormously complex, and should do very interesting things over the next six years. Right now it is tight and fresh in primary fruits and acidity. It’s an enormously rich wine, vast in black cherries, pomegranates, cola, red plums, balsam and sauteed mushroom flavors, with a gamy, forest-floor earthiness. Time in the bottle can only improve it through 2011.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 96