Offering more sweetness of black fruit (plum and cherry) – albeit accompanied by tartness – than a corresponding Clos Micot bottling, the Voillot 2006 Pommard Pezerolles yields the most obvious sense of minerality in this year's collection, through its persistently chalky undertone. This also boasts refined though considerable tannins and a more emphatic sense of finishing grip than its stable mates. Hints of aromatic woods and pungent herbs waft through this, adding further interest. I'd plan to give this as yet austere wine 2-3 years in bottle and then anticipate an equal period of optimum satisfaction, though its author thinks those numbers are too low.
The characteristically crisply-edged Pinot style favored by Jean-Pierre Charlot resulted in a collection of generally bright, delicate, but lean and selectively astringent 2006s. Charlot says triage was needed for culling grapes that had been subjected July sunburn, as well as for eliminating under-ripeness and rot. He professed satisfaction with by the standards of the vintage relatively low natural alcohol levels of 11.5-12.5%, and chaptalized lightly. Only the Bourgogne was deemed to require filtration, and Charlot says he prefers paying the price of a bit higher dosage of SO2 to submitting his Pinots to that trauma.
Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
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