The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a wine of immense proportions and extraordinary complexity. I cannot say it is better than the regular cuvee since, in large measure, they both possess the same exuberance, personality, and depth of fruit. Both the 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and the 1990 Brunello di Montalcino are full-bodied, expansive wines offering dark ruby colors, spicy, cedar, tobacco, and fruitcake-scented noses, and sensational attacks. Even more noteworthy is their length, which unfolds and expands impressively. Loads of tannin and alcohol infuse these Brunellos with a potential of 15-20 or more years of longevity. Both are stunning Brunello di Montalcinos that can be drunk now or cellared. I am beginning to think that if I had only one Brunello di Montalcino to drink it would have to be Pertimali. This producer has been making spectacular wines since 1982. Unfortunately, quantities are microscopic, making availability a major roadblock. A Marc di Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300