For a number of years this microscopic estate has made one of the finest wines of the esteemed Brunello di Montalcino viticultural area. I previously raved about Pertimali's regular cuvee of 1988 Brunello di Montalcino. The Riserva, which has just been released, is a wine of immense proportions and extraordinary complexity. I cannot say it is better than the regular cuvee since, in large measure, it possesses the same exuberance, personality, and depth of fruit. Yet it has an additional dimension of complexity and perfume. Dark ruby-colored, with a spicy, cedary, tobacco and fruitcake-scented nose, this full-bodied, expansive wine offers a sensational attack. Even more noteworthy is the wine's length, which unfolds and expands impressively. Loads of tannin and alcohol infuse this wine with a joyous potential of 15-20 or more years of longevity. It is a stunning Brunello di Montalcino Riserva that can be drunk now or cellared. As prodigious a wine as it is, it will be extremely hard to find given the microscopic quantities produced. Importer: a Marc di Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnick Wines, Westbury, NY.