The Dujac 2006 Vosne-Romanee Beaux Monts – reflecting both the recently-acquired Molliard portion and the adjacent parcel that has belonged to Dujac for years – displays a striking combination of bright berry fruit with plush, silken texture. High-toned distilled fruit esters; saline and chalky mineral suggestions; peppery, brown-spiced pungency; and deep, clean, marrowy meatiness all contribute to the complexity of the palate, and this finishes with clarity, cut, transparency, and invigoration, yet no suggestion of sharpness. The more somber, darkly woodsy, and cyanic side of the vintage and of Vosne are not entirely sublimated – which is a good thing, from the standpoint of complexity – and it is possible that they will become more prominent for a time. But this wine is riveting in part precisely because of that inherent contrast between darkness and high-toned light, as well as between the fruit and carnal and mineral characteristics inherent in Vosne. A classic of its site, it should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Jeremy Seysses only destemmed a minority of his 2006 fruit, and in some appellations none. The results demonstrate that Dujac got things ripe – not to mention right – in a challenging vintage, with a collection that need not fear comparison with 2005 at this address. (Perhaps, if anything, 2005 ought to look to its laurels!) The team here started picking only on September 23, and then very meticulously and selectively. Clos de la Roche, for example, was picked in two passes nearly a week apart. The top wines came in at between 13 and 13.5% natural alcohol, with minimal chaptalization employed in some instances to extend fermentation. "Color and flavor extraction was easy," says Seysses, "and we did more punch-downs than in 2005, because we felt quite confident of our material. The fruit is fresh and crisp, but not green, and we had no jamminess. It was just right. There's very little to complain about." Indeed!Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
