Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, France

阿爾伯特·畢修長(zhǎng)笛酒莊克洛斯（夏布利特級(jí)園）白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：7375

Here's one cru that turned out far better this year than in 2006, and is today the most transparent to nuances of the 2007 Long-Depaquit collection. Long-Depaquit's 2007 Chablis Les Clos offers a predictably denser but less charming personality than the Blanchots, with similar phenolic pungency and the grip of lemon zest and white pepper underlain by a stonier expression of things mineral. The fresh citrus component here makes for an almost brash brightness, and the synergy of fruit skin, fruit pit, and stone for a distinctly bitter cast. All this said, chicken stock and peach fruit convey a deep sense of richness that should emerge with bottle age. I anticipate this being worth following for at least 6-8 years. A side-by-side comparison with the 2004 was interesting but inconclusive. I found the latter fascinatingly mineral and full of phenolic cut and brightness, but still a bit austere and stand-offish, and asked myself whether it makes sense to wait a few more years. On the other hand, the team here shares with most Chablis growers the belief that their 2007 is inherently richer. Tasted today, the 2002 is intriguingly transparent to mineral and floral nuances, if slightly brittle in texture, while the richer 2006 Le Clos looks to be the estate's most impressive of the last four vintages. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy. Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

Here's one cru that turned out far better this year than in 2006, and is today the most transparent to nuances of the 2007 Long-Depaquit collection. Long-Depaquit's 2007 Chablis Les Clos offers a predictably denser but less charming personality than the Blanchots, with similar phenolic pungency and the grip of lemon zest and white pepper underlain by a stonier expression of things mineral. The fresh citrus component here makes for an almost brash brightness, and the synergy of fruit skin, fruit pit, and stone for a distinctly bitter cast. All this said, chicken stock and peach fruit convey a deep sense of richness that should emerge with bottle age. I anticipate this being worth following for at least 6-8 years. A side-by-side comparison with the 2004 was interesting but inconclusive. I found the latter fascinatingly mineral and full of phenolic cut and brightness, but still a bit austere and stand-offish, and asked myself whether it makes sense to wait a few more years. On the other hand, the team here shares with most Chablis growers the belief that their 2007 is inherently richer. Tasted today, the 2002 is intriguingly transparent to mineral and floral nuances, if slightly brittle in texture, while the richer 2006 Le Clos looks to be the estate's most impressive of the last four vintages. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

The flagship wine from Bichot’s Long-Depaquit estate is, as usual, impressive. It has richness, balance, full white fruits with just a hint of steeliness. Powered by a citrus acidity, it looks likely to age well over several years. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 95

A beautifully balanced wine, its acidity blending easily with the fresh fruits, toast and rich texture. There is a high mineral content, but this fits well into the white fruits, lime zest and final freshness. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 93