This is always a gigantic wine, and its success depends on technically balancing its various parts. The 2010 delivers the usual richness, with vast, deep fruit, mineral, oak and leesy flavors. It’s as full bodied as a red wine, but a little heavy for a Chardonnay. Not an ager, it’s best enjoyed now with the richest Chardonnay-friendly dishes. — (7/1/2012) —90