The 1998 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Fuées is a sterling wine for what turned out to be Gaston Barthod's last vintage alongside his daughter Ghislaine. It has a respectable deep garnet core with slight aging on the rim. The nose is upstanding, holding everything back at first, but then opens up with aeration with blackberry and raspberry preserve, just a touch of fig in the background. The fruit profile is rapidly overtaken by more secondary notes of wet woodland and cooked meat. That cooked meat note comes through on the palate that is well balanced, a bit "stocky" with firm but rigid tannins. There is plenty of fruit here, although it has decayed in recent years. With good length in the mouth, this is a slightly standoffish Chambolle-Musigny, perhaps more Morey-Saint-Denis in style yet still a very welcome contribution to the vintage. Tasted September 2015.
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