This immaculately preserved bottle of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 1980 Richebourg Grand Cru was extraordinary, soaring from the glass with a heart-stopping bouquet of peonies, orange rind, hoisin, clove and cardamon mingled with beautifully pure notes of raspberries and plums. Full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, it's sumptuous and intensely perfumed, with an ample core of fruit, melting tannins and a broad, expansive finish that remains unerringly precise.