Domaine Marcel Deiss Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France

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The Deiss 2007 Pinot Blanc Bergheim incorporates Auxerrois; true Pinot Blanc; pinches of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris; plus a sizeable measure of “Pinot Beurot” – which he at pains to distinguish Pinot Gris – inter-planted in part now, with the older vineyards still in blocks, and vinified in a combination of fuder and barriques. Tangerine, grapefruit, nut oils, and whiffs of wood smoke on the nose migrate to a palate of cut and clarity as well as subtle creaminess of texture. Suggestions of peachy richness as well as chalky underpinnings emerge in the saliva-inducing finish. It’s hard to beat this as an example of versatility and distinction achieved through a multiplicity of cepages. You can plan on enjoying it over the next 3-5 years, if not longer. Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000

Opening notes of Swiss cheese are more appealing than they sound. There are apple undertones, mineral notes and a dry, medium finish that’s shot through with notes of wet stones. Try with light fish dishes. Drink now or keep several years. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 87