The primary bottling from the cave cooperative in Gigondas, the 2018 Gigondas la Reference looks to be one of the best they've made. An assemblage of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, it's full-bodied and supple, with fine shadings of dried spices accenting cherry-berry fruit. It's difficult to know whether this co-op has seriously raised its game or just been blessed by a few good vintages, but either way, consumers who buy the wines come out winners.