Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Au Velle, Cote de Nuits, France

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Although I did not have the opportunity to taste Mortet's highly-regarded 1993 Chambertin or Clos de Vougeot, his Gevrey-Chambertin Au Velle and Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques are both deeply colored, lavishly-oaked, medium-bodied wines with considerable structure and tannin, as well as good fruit concentration. Nevertheless, they are not sure bets given their severe tannin levels. More forward and less complex, the Gevrey-Chambertin Au Velle is a well-made example of a village wine. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Given Mortet's utilization of more new oak and the higher extraction he is achieving in his wines, it will be interesting to see what he accomplishes in a less difficult vintage. I have derived modest enjoyment from Mortet's elegant, finesse-styled red burgundies and thought he had the potential to be one of the stars of Gevrey-Chambertin. Since I published my book on Burgundy in 1990, I have to say that the quality appears to have stalled at a pleasant, but uninspiring level. As do many Burgundy growers, Mortet has traditionally relied on the Kisselguhr system of filtration, but his American importer, Martine Saunier, has recently persuaded him to abandon the practice. Consequently, his 1993s are among the darkest-colored wines he has made. They are all capable of 6-10 years of cellaring. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800