The 2004 #7 Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen displays the glazed pineapple and candied lemon aspects of this variety, beginning with its mouthwatering aromas, continuing onto a palate of startling viscosity and palpable richness, and carrying into a finish whose 246 grams of residual sugar are very much evident, but which still stays succulent and fresh. Time, I suspect, will bring considerably more complexity to this T.B.A., as well as of course slim it down a bit, lower the perceived sweetness level, and bring an as yet subtle note of caramel to the fore.The inspiring and otherwise irrepressible Alois “Luis” Kracher died last December 5, after a nearly year-long battle with pancreatic cancer. His son Gerhard, 27, and still-active father will continue the work of this exemplary estate. Note: I tasted the Kracher wines of 2005 and 2006 for the reviews above this Spring, and the 2004s in late 2007 and again this Spring. Kracher was restrained in his early judgment of the challenging 2004 vintage, in which he could not start picking noble rot until November, and continued until Christmas. “The first selections were wonderful; the second passage classic, good; the third – kaput,” was how he described it. “From two months of work,” he continued, “we netted 6,000 liters of quality T.B.A.,” from which he promises a modest-sized collection so that – as he puts it – he wouldn’t have to apologize for a vintage that is good but not great. I don’t believe that this was a tactical confession on his part. Kracher was genuinely surprised by the quality that emerged as his 2004 collection evolved, and in the end, he bottled the same number of Trockenbeerenauslesen – ten – as in the manifestly more classic botrytis vintage of 2005.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

There's impeccable balance, depth and concentration to this ripe, luscious sweetie. Ripe apricot, peach and pineapple flavors fill this to the brim, topped by lush vanilla, white chocolate and cream notes that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2030.??–KM??Region: Austria / Burgenland Select to Add