The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino reveals perfumed aromatics and gorgeous layers of ripe red fruit, smoke, menthol, tar and licorice as it flows onto the palate with remarkable grace and elegance. This sweet, nuanced Brunello shows outstanding persistence and balance, particularly in the way the tannins are so beautifully integrated with the rest of the wine. Readers who love great Sangiovese from Montalcino should be sure Cerbaiona’s 2003 Brunello is at the top of their shopping lists. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020.There is good news and bad news at this venerable property located near the center of Montalcino. The good news is that proprietor Diego Molinari has once again crafted what may very well turn out to be the Brunello of the vintage. The bad news is that pricing has gone through the roof, something that is particularly frustrating in a vintage in which the overwhelming majority of producers exercised far greater restraint. That may be the only criticism I can make here, because the wines are simply stunning.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200