What a joy it is to taste Molinari’s 2001 Brunello di Montalcino. A dark, translucent ruby, it opens with a profound, deeply expressive nose followed by notes of licorice, tar, black cherries and smoke that take on new dimensions of complexity as this great wine sits in the glass. Deceptively medium in body, it shows plenty of vibrant fruit, structure and fine, noble tannins which insure it will still be a magical wine in 15 years and likely beyond. This Brunello has been nothing short of stunning on the two occasions I’ve tasted it so far and it is undoubtedly one of the vintage’s unqualified successes. It is highly recommended. Recent bottles of the 1999 and 1990 have also been immensely enjoyable. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Modern and smooth thanks to generous wood and toasted notes. Dusty cedar, lush vanilla with blueberry and mineral tones. Oak smoothness translates well in the mouth and is helped by mellow tannins. Any more oak would bring it over the top. Imported by Vias Imports. ——W.E.(4/1/2006)—— 91