Dominique Laurent Les Rugiens, Pommard Premier Cru, France

多米尼克勞倫洛吉恩園（?，斠患増@）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：6630

Aggressive smokiness and fairly prominent volatility mark the nose of Laurent's 2006 Pommard Rugiens Vieilles Vignes. Like its ancient-vines Epenots sibling, this features dried fruits, here allied to a broad though fine-grained vein of tannin, with its component of new wood not yet entirely digested. (I write "not yet," because in most cases, with Laurent wines this does seem to happen.) This is remarkably dense and boasts an uncanny, Mourvedre-like suggestion of sirloin juices and intensity of smoky, so-called "ferrous" mineral character (hard to otherwise put in words) that typifies this site, and from which in fact – in a sense, at least – it takes its name. I would forget this in the cellar for 4-5 years and then anticipate at least another half dozen of fascination at table. Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation.Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808