When I tasted Calera's 1990 Central Coast Chardonnay, made from purchased grapes, I began to salivate thinking about how profound their unreleased 1990 Mount Harlan Chardonnay might be. The Central Coast Chardonnay is a terrific bottle of unbelievably unctuous, rich, expansively flavored, dramatic Chardonnay that is oozing with buttery, tropical fruit, plenty of glycerin and alcohol, and a lusty, heady finish. It represents an authoritative example of what California can do with Chardonnay, but so rarely does. For drinking over the next 1-2 years, this is Chardonnay at its most decadent.This winery continues to solidify its position as America's top producer of Pinot Noir.