The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas, which like all Michel’s premier crus sees 50% new oak, has a slightly higher-toned bouquet compared with the Aux Br?lées: small dark cherries, cassis and iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasing, grainy texture. Here, the dense black fruit mask the structure underneath that gives this a Malconsorts personality. It does not have enormous length at the moment but it is nicely focused.