The 2008 Zinfandel Estate Reserve is the deepest and most complex of these Zinfandels. It shows good concentration and persistence, but ultimately little in the way of varietal definition. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Tel. (707) 942-5310; www.storybookwines.com

This is the most elegant of the winery’s new Zinfandels, although elegant has to be taken in context when it comes to mountain fruit with this intensity and power. It’s a big wine, with potent raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. Yet there’s a delicacy to it, even considering the tannins, that’s almost like a Pinot Noir, strange as that sounds. Earns its high score by virtue of this magic. Should age effortlessly throughout the decade.——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 94