The 2009 Il Carbonaione has elegance to burn. Polished, silky tannins frame layers of fruit as this harmonious, totally finessed wine blossoms in the glass. The 2009 is simply glorious from the very first taste. A kick of Sangiovese acidity gives the wine its lift and vibrancy on the finish. This is a great showing. Carbonaione is 100% Sangiovese (Lamole clone) grown on the hillsides of Greve. The wine spent 15 months in 350-liter oak barrels, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2029. The Poggio Scalette wines aren't always easy to find, but they are well worth the effort. This is another strong set of new releases from father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. In particular, I was impressed with the Chianti Classico, which shows tons of character and personality at a very fair price. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620