One of my favorite new wines from Tuscany, this 30-acre estate, owned by Vittorio Fiore and Adriana Assje, produces wines from a clone of Sangiovese called Lamole. The wine is aged in small 350 liter foudres for 18 months prior to bottling. Yields are extremely low, averaging approximately 1.2 tons of fruit per acre (about 20 hectoliters per hectare). Every vintage to date has been impressive. The 1997 Il Carboniaone may improve further in the bottle. It is incredibly opulent, expansive, with copious quantities of fruit and glycerin as well as long, concentrated, blackberry and jammy cherry flavors. The tannin is beautifully integrated, the acidity is adequate but low, and the wine is fleshy and hedonistic. It should drink well for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

One of my favorite new wines from Tuscany, this 30-acre estate, owned by Vittorio Fiore and Adriana Assje, produces wines from a clone of Sangiovese called Lamole. The wine is aged in small 350 liter foudres for 18 months prior to bottling. Yields are extremely low, averaging approximately 1.2 tons of fruit per acre (about 20 hectoliters per hectare). Every vintage to date has been impressive. The 1997 Il Carboniaone may improve further in the bottle. It is incredibly opulent, expansive, with copious quantities of fruit and glycerin as well as long, concentrated, blackberry and jammy cherry flavors. The tannin is beautifully integrated, the acidity is adequate but low, and the wine is fleshy and hedonistic. It should drink well for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620