The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous in this vintage. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint, hard candy and licorice are some of the many notes that flow from this radiant, hugely expressive wine. The 2007 stands apart for its sensual, feminine personality and fabulous overall balance. High-toned floral notes waft from the glass on the sensual finish. There is just a touch of sweetness from the ripeness of the fruit. The 2007 was vinified in conical oak vats and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 40 months, a very traditional approach that works nicely here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027. These two wines from Capanna were among the clear overachievers in my tastings. Importers: Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, MA; tel. (781) 335-6620; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060

Capanna’s offering in 2007 is extremely bold, dark and opulent. Loads of aromatic momentum in the form of blackberry, cherry liqueur, spice, leather, tobacco, rum cake, cinnamon, vanilla bean and bitter chocolate characterize the bouquet. The wine also shows a soft, ripe, generous texture, yet remains well-contained and balanced.