Shows the elegantly crisp, almost austere structure of the winery’s 2009s, courtesy of the cool vintage. Tight at first in acids and tannins, as it warms it gives off deep layers of sour cherries, cola, pomegranates and rhubarbs, all of them dry, earthy fruits that sing of the soil. Should develop bottle complexity through 2015. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 93
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