The 2008 Nerosanlore is the richest, darkest and most brooding of these Nero d’Avolas from Gulfi. Tar, smoke, licorice, incense and the blackest of fruit emerge from this powerful, full-bodied Sicilian red. There is an element of unrestrained power in the Nerosanlore that distinguishes it from the other wines in the range. Leather, earthiness and graphite are some of the nuances that add a baritone-like sense of gravitas on the finish. A huge, powerful finish rounds out in this brooding, imposing wine. In 2008, the Nerosanlore is rustic, but also beautiful in its own way. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. When I think of benchmark producers of Nero d’Avola one of the first names that comes to mind is Gulfi. The estate makes a number of single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas that provide an opportunity to explore the various shades this great Sicilian variety is capable of expressing. Gulfi’s best-known wines emerge from head-trained Nero d’Avola in the Pachino and Val di Noto districts, all farmed organically. The Reseca, a Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of the Etna, is the exception, but it, too, is fabulous. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202