Heavy and rustic, with smoked game, rubber and bacon on a condensed nose. Woodsy and leafy, with flavors of dried cherry, vanilla, pepper and coffee. Acidic and tannic, with structure to push it on for another 20 years. But where would be the fruit and fun? Already it needs food. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. ——M.S.(8/1/2005)—— 88