The 2008 Pinot Noir Carter Vineyard from a site planted in 1983 and farmed by Ken Wright for the past 10 years, is dark ruby red with a sexy nose of underbrush, cherry blossom, spice box, and assorted black fruits. Rounder, richer, and a bit more concentrated than the preceding wines, it displays an outstanding integration of oak, acidity, and tannin, a velvety texture, and a lengthy, pure finish. It merits 3-4 years of cellaring and will deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2023. Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs in 2008 are exceptional but only slightly better than his 2007s from a much more difficult vintage. Perhaps it is in the more challenging vintages that the cream really rises to the top, whereas the challenge in 2008 was to NOT make a really good wine. Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com

This distinctive bottling, which includes a percentage of juice from 25-year-old vines, leans toward the spicy/herbal side of Oregon Pinot Noir. Whiffs of herb and leaf fade into light, lingering pale red fruits—watermelon and strawberry. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 89