The 2005 Pinot Noir “Carter Vineyard” offers lots of blue fruit aromas and flavors. It has superb depth as well as bracing acidity and well-integrated tannin. The long, pure finish lasts for 45+ seconds. Give this beauty 6-8 years to blossom and drink it through 2030. Ken Wright has a Syrah/Claret project under the Tyrus Evans label. The fruit is sourced from southern Oregon and eastern Washington. I tasted four wines, all of them outstanding. I list them without tasting notes: 2004 Claret “Del Rio Vineyard – 90; 2004 Claret “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard” – 91; 2005 Syrah, Walla Walla – 92; 2005 Syrah “Del Rio Vineyard” – 90+. Ken Wright Cellars has long been one of the reference points for Pinot Noir fanatics. Ken Wright is the ultimate terroirist, stating on his web site (which I highly recommend reading) that the value of Pinot Noir is that it is the perfect vehicle for expressing the characteristics of the site in which it is grown. He says that the secret to making great Pinot Noir is “?learning how to farm. Every vineyard has its own issues.” Tel. (800) 571-6825; www.kenwrightcellars.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Blanc (91), 2005 Chardonnay “Celilo Vineyard” (93)

The Carter vineyard, planted in 1983, is close to Canary Hill and carries similar cherry fruit flavors, but in a lighter, softer, much more delicate frame. It’s a bit like licking the foam from around the top of a cherry cola sundae – it’s that airy and flavorful. Persistent, textural flavors suggest spicy blue plum, cranberry and rhubarb, with a splash of mint in the finish. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 90