The 2004 Gattinara Vigneto Castelle is incredibly pure. Endless layers of spices, leather, tobacco, earthiness and wild herbs flow as this generous, engaging Gattinara opens up in the glass. The tannins remain firm yet the wine possesses more than enough stuffing to provide balance.
Antoniolo is a reference-point producer for first-class Gattinara. This set of wines is easily the finest I have tasted here.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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