Lafon’s 2005 Volnay comes from his 5-10 year old vines (largely from his own selection massale) in the Santenots. Unlike his other 2005s, this finished malo “on time” and was racked to tank at the end of the summer, from which he bottled it the day I visited. Scents of lavender and fresh black cherry lead to a fresh, tight, rather brisk palate with tart fruit skin and bitter black chocolate accents. This boasts refined tannins and lingering spice, even if it lacks a bit of mid-palate weight or richness. And I feel compelled to make allowance for its having come right off the bottling line. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040