Complete and fleshy, the Reserve is blended from all of the winery’s vineyard sites. The fruit is sharp and tangy, spiced with cut leaf tobacco, and the oak treatment is laid back. Tight and angular, it doesn’t quite show the finesse and concentration of the single-vineyard wines, but that might also be a simple matter of needing just a little more time in the bottle to pull itself together.——P.G.(12/1/2006)—— 89