The 2003 Excelencia, from slightly older vines, spent 16 months in French oak and was bottled without filtration. Opaque purple, it offers an enticing bouquet of cedar, pencil lead, violets, and blackberry. Slightly compressed and quite tannic on the palate, the wine is tightly wound but appears to have enough fruit to reach equilibrium after extended cellaring of 6-8 years. Its purchase is something of a gamble because of its balance issues. Importer: Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121