Jean-Marc’s two-hectares of Dominode come from an intermingling of young and old vines. The 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode has a complex bouquet delivering raspberry and wild strawberry at first, but there is an undercurrent of cold stone and a soupcon of cold black tea. The palate is very well-balanced with a lithe opening and filigree tannins. Yet there is certainly good structure on the firm, no-messin’ finish. The fruit is pure here, very mineral-driven with a hint of spice on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2014-2023. The road resurfacing on the boiling hot Tuesday afternoon of my visit almost thwarted me from reaching Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot (God only knows how the tar could have actually melted in those temperatures.) It was a relief to descend into the cool cellars with Hugues Pavelot who works alongside his father. He seemed guarded at first, perhaps more laconic than other young winemakers that I meet, but relaxed and opened up once we began discussing his wines. This has been a go-to address for great Savigny-les-Beaune for a number of years, demonstrating the heights that can be achieved and their 2011s are definitely worth seeking out. There is a simple approach with prudent use of oak that hovers between 15 and 30% new wood. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70