A 10-year wine, and the most closed of the Roar Pinots is the dark purple-colored 2007 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard. Loaded with potential, it exhibits sweet black raspberry and kirsch fruit intermixed with notions of lavender, earth, and spice box. Displaying superb fruit as well as abundant structure, tannin, and backwardness, this cuvee needs 1-2 years of bottle age, and should drink nicely for a decade or more. Tel. (831) 675-1681; Fax (831) 675-1683

Robust and full-bodied, as you’d expect from this vineyard, a dry, somewhat tannic wine that shows a stubbornly fruity immaturity. That doesn’t mean you can’t drink it now, because the flood of cherries, black raspberries, sweet cola and vanilla-infused smoky oak is delicious. However, this big, powerful wine actually needs a few years in the cellar to calm down.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 94