From a 1,000-foot elevation, the relatively cool-site 2006 Chardonnay Red Point (which spent 11 months on its lees and went through 100% barrel and malolactic fermentations) exhibits medium to full body and terrific honey and citrus-like fruit as well as orange blossoms. The wine is ripe, pure, and well-delineated.Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

Showing a flavor concentration unusual in California Chardonnay, this mountain wine is massive in baked tropical mango, guava and peach flavors, even a decadent taste of ripe bananas sauteed in butter and spiced with cinnamon, cloves and gingersnap cookie. It’s also rich in smoky, caramelized oak, yet there’s a firm backbone of minerals that, together with crisp acids, gives the wine structure.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 94