Coming from a single-hectare parcel of old vines that are around 80 years in age, the 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Gravains has a more mineral-driven bouquet with fine delineation: focused and tightly wound with hints of wet limestone emerging with aeration. The palate is very well-balanced with sorbet-like red berry fruit on the entry. There is good tension here, a citric line of acidity with a harmonious, tart finish that pings around the mouth. This is like a yapping young terrier, almost too delicious to cellar! Drink now-2020.
The road resurfacing on the boiling hot Tuesday afternoon of my visit almost thwarted me from reaching Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot (God only knows how the tar could have actually melted in those temperatures.) It was a relief to descend into the cool cellars with Hugues Pavelot who works alongside his father. He seemed guarded at first, perhaps more laconic than other young winemakers that I meet, but relaxed and opened up once we began discussing his wines. This has been a go-to address for great Savigny-les-Beaune for a number of years, demonstrating the heights that can be achieved and their 2011s are definitely worth seeking out. There is a simple approach with prudent use of oak that hovers between 15 and 30% new wood.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
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