The 2013 Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio is a fleshy but streamlined expression of one of Italy's most versatile grapes. The bouquet shows heavy tones of candied fruit and caramel with some lighter tones of citrus and peach at the back. Those fruit flavors are emboldened by distant touches of sulfur or volcanic stone. Cantarutti's Pinot Grigio offers much more structure and thickness than you normally get with this grape.