The 2007 Il Pino di Biserno bursts onto the palate with waves of mocha, espresso, sweet herbs and plums. It is a fat, opulent wine that stands quite in contrast to the cooler, introspective 2008. There is an openness and generosity that is especially rewarding for a wine meant to be enjoyed on the young side. This is an exceptional effort from Tenuta di Biserno. Il Pino di Biserno is the estate’s second wine. In 2007 the blend was 35% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. The malo was done in equal parts oak and stainless steel and the wine was subsequently aged in French oak (65%) and stainless steel (35%). Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Despite the ownership of Lodovico Antinori and the presence of an all-star team of winemakers that includes Michel Rolland, Tenuta di Biserno remains one of the best kept secrets in Bolgheri, at least in the US, where the wines have limited distribution. Hopefully that will change in the near future. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

(14.5% abv) Brilliant ruby red. Wonderfully aromatic and complex. Notes of violets, smoke and spice. Very elegant. Palate shows delicious balance, wonderfully crisp acidity and a weightless feel in the mouth that belies its 14.5% alcohol. Wonderfully supple tannins. Supremely smooth, with a savoury, chocolatey finish. Fabulous.