The top of the line 2005 Il Pino di Biserno is simply beautiful. It possesses outstanding clarity in its aromatics and ripe fruit. Notes of smoke, licorice and tar dance on the palate as this sexy wine continues to reveal new shades of its personality with every taste. The oak needs some time to come together, but this is an elegant, refined wine in every way. Il Pino di Biserno is a cuvee of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2023. Tenuta di Biserno is the new project being headed by brothers Lodovico and Piero Antinori.Winemaking is overseen by Helena Lindberg with the consulting services of Michel Rolland.These are beautiful wines from an estate that is on the rise. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

(14.5% abv) Deep colour and rich, gamey nose. Lifted, smoky, pencil shaving aromas. Palate very mineral, savoury and crisp, with cocoa-tinged black fruit. Lovely. Good length, wonderful complexity for such young vines.

This Bordeaux-inspired blend (2005 is the second vintage made) represents the collaborative effort of Lodovico Antinori and Michel Rolland. You’ll get clear berry fruit, green peppercorn, dried herbs and smoky oak tones. The estate’s flagship wine, Biserno, will be released later this year, and expect great things from this duo in years to come as the estate matures.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 93